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| Posted: Wed Apr 30th, 2008 06:01 pm |
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21st Post |
Albert Sailhorst
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Bama,
Well, buddy, I'm just as curious as you!!!....heehee
This sure is a learning process, and I bet I don't make the same mistake twice!
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| Posted: Wed Apr 30th, 2008 07:16 pm |
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22nd Post |
j harold 587
Member
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I beleive Bama has the right idea that the rust remover may have more to do with the failure to "take" the cold blue than any thing else. Have not done bluing for about 40 years, but have had experince with browning building reproduction muzzle loaders. A fellow who was building a kit was having trouble getting the barrell to brown and a really old guy told him to boil it in plain water for about 15 minutes. It worked and the barrel looks good about 5 years later. Boiling should not harm it and perhaps will get the residue of the remover off.
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| Posted: Wed Apr 30th, 2008 07:23 pm |
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23rd Post |
Albert Sailhorst
Member
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j harold
That may certainly be an option!
That's how I cleaned it when I fired it....boiled the fire out of it, dried it and oiled it.
Thanks!
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Bama46
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Albert,
in an earlier psot, you asked how accurate a browned or brownblued piece would be.. well, imagine yourself a calvaryman with a pistol...new or one from home. You wear that thing every day, you sweat in the holster, you wear it in the rain, you draw the pistol often, not necessiarily in combat, but to insure powder remains dry, caps on the nipples, etc.. You really need that gun to go bang and not click whe the bad guy approaches. In addition, it may get dropped, scraped up against a rock, used as a hammer in a pinch.... furthermore, you oil or grease it with whatever happens to be handy..maybe a little axle grease off a wagon? How long do you expect it to be presentation grade? I would give it 2 weeks maybe less.. Look in a gunshop at the used guns. They proudly wear dings, nicks, bare spots and look less than perfect. I have seen a lot of firearms in battlefield museums and very few were nice blued pieces. Most looked like they had been thru, well.. a battle
Just my thoughts on the subject, but the only gun I have without wear, dings, etc is a shotgun I have never shot.. why not, you ask? Beats the hell outta me, I don't know either except I continue to like my old '97 Winchester that I have used all my life
EdLast edited on Thu May 1st, 2008 08:51 pm by
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ole
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That was a point I had meant to mention, Albert. Cold blue tends to take a bit better if the metal is heated some. At least, it used to.
ole
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Bama46
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After all this, we are waiting with baited or blued breath to find out the outcome
Ed
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Albert Sailhorst
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Ole,
I was thinking about heating it with a blow dryer to see what effect that might have. Shoot, it couldn't hurt!
Bama,
I'm waiting, too, to see how it turns out!! I hope it works, because I found a kit for a single shot .50 Cal. pistol that I got for Christmas about the same time as I got the .44 (about 25 years ago!), so I'll be working on it once I finish the .44.
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ole
Member
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The recommendation of boiling it for a while makes better sense for evenly heating it. When you hook it out, it will dry quickly and maintain an even heat.
ole
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ole
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'Nother double post! You'd think by now I'd have learned not to do that! Last edited on Fri May 2nd, 2008 02:05 pm by ole
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Albert Sailhorst
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Ole,
If I understand you correctly, do you suggest:
1) Boil the barrell
2)Hang to dry
3) Apply blue solution
4) Let dry
5) Repeat the process
Once the desired "deepness" of blue is attained, polish the barrel with very fine steel wool.
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Bama46
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Albert,
Let me step in here. When you have the desired depth of color, take an oiled patch and polish the barrel with that. or use an old t-shirt if you want a bigger rag. I only use steel wool as a last resort and then very sparingly, always oiled, and always #0000 or finer.. Steel wool can undo a lot of work in a big hurry if not careful
The advantage of the patch/cotton T-shirt is that you can use some elbow grease on it wthout hurting the finish. The pressure applies a friction that warms slightly the barrel and gives you the polished look without removing any blue. That same pressure using steel wool would give you an nice bright shiney barrel again...just what you are trying to avoid in the first place.
Ed
Last edited on Fri May 2nd, 2008 02:55 pm by
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ole
Member
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I'm supposing you could leave it in the oven at about 170 degrees for a half hour. The idea is to heat it evenly -- and a hair dryer isn't going to do that.
Beyond that, follow the directions and listen to Bama.
ole
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j harold 587
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Albert , your post above is about what I am suggesting. Once it is boiled bring it out this should kill any residual action of the rust remover. Then remove and let dry. This should not take long due to rapid evaporation. While it is still warm (even heat throughout the steel) use gloves put on your cold blue.
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