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COLD SLAUGH
1 head cabbage
Vinegar
Salt
Pepper
Whole mustard seeds, white
Pickled eggs, cut in circles
Select firm, fragile heads of cabbage (no other sort being fit for
slaugh); having stripped off the outer leaves, cleave the top part
of the head into four equal parts, leaving the lower part whole, so
that they may not be separated till shaved or cut fine from the
stalk. Take a very sharp knife, shave off the cabbage roundwise,
cutting it very smoothly and evenly, and at no rate more than a
quarter of an inch in width. Put the shavings or slaugh in a deep
china dish, pile it high, and make it smooth; mix with enough good
vinegar to nearly fill the dish, a sufficient quantity of salt and
pepper to season the slaugh; add a spoonful of whole white mustard
seeds, and pour it over the slaugh, garnish it round on the edge of
the dish with pickled eggs, cut in ringlets. Never put butter on
cabbage that is to be eaten cold, as it is by no means pleasant to
the taste or sight.
From The Kentucky Housewife by Lettice Bryan, 1839
Comments: While the spelling of both the first and the last names of
"coleslaw" may have changed a good bit over time, the recipe itself
is still the version commonly found in many parts of the country.
Mrs. Bryan suffers from the run-on-sentence syndrome all too common
in cookery writers of her day, and it should be noted that the
dressing--vinegar, mustard seed, etc--is to be mixed separately and
then poured over the cabbage all at once. Cabbage was one of the few
vegetables which could be stored over winter without canning,
pickling or other preservative procedures by simply burying the
heads in a barrel packed with sand and stored in the basement or
cold cellar. In addition it is unusually high in Vitamin C so
probably kept some of our ancestors protected against scurvy over
the winter.
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