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WHITE SAUCE FOR FISH
4 anchovies, chopped
2 c. white wine
1 plus 2 tbs. vinegar
1 onion
3 whole cloves
1/4 lb. (1 stick) butter
1 tbs. flour
1/2 pint cream
Four anchovies chopped, two glasses of white wine, a large one of
vinegar, an onion stuck with three cloves, and cut into quarters;
let all these simmer till the anchovies dissolve; strain it, and add
a quarter of a pound of butter kneaded in a table-spoonful of flour.
When it has melted, stir in gradually, one way, half a pint of
cream, taking care that it do not boil. When thoroughly heated,
serve in a sauce-tureen.
From: The Cook's Own Book by "A Boston Housekeeper" [Mrs. N. K.
M. Lee], Boston, 1832
Comment: This recipe really ought to be called "Anchovy Butter,"
although those of a medical persuasion would probably prefer that it
be called "Prescription for Cardiac Arrest Or At the Very Least A
Horrible Case of Gout." The directive to "stir [the cream] in one
way" means that you can stir either clockwise or counter-clockwise
but must pick one or the other and stick to it, not reversing
direction halfway through. The idea is to blend the cream into the
mixture as gently as possible so as to decrease the chances of it
suddenly curdling up as it will be inclined to do in the presence of
vinegar and wine.
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